This is one of the finest climbs in all of Arizona. It is a big route
on fine rock in a wonderful and scenic spot. To get there, drive from
Tucson to Cochise Stronghold East.
Check the topos in Bob Kerry's book if you don't know the area.
Don't drive all the way to the campground, as you drive into the
stronghold area, the road turns sharply left after going around and
past a small hill. Look for a dirt road that goes straight on (west)
rather than south as the main road goes and park on it where there is
a spot. From here hike ahead and left (WSW) up an obvious canyon with
the big domes on the right.
The Wasteland can be a serious route if you don't take care in routefinding.
Protection is very good and all natural. Friends are remarkably of little
use on the route, medium size nuts and lots of slings over heads does the
job. (I don't know why Kerry thinks that pitch 5 is so serious).
The route wanders quite a bit and a number of parties have gotten completely
screwed up. This can be prevented by carefully studying the route on
the approach and getting it mapped out in your mind before you get
where you cannot see the forest for the trees. The descent offers as
many opportunities to get into a mess as the ascent, so don't let down
your guard too soon.
Once you are directly below the route, it will be obvious that you need to
climb up onto a big vegetated ledge to start the route. I have always started
the first pitch from up on this ledge, but some may want to rope up sooner.
- 5.4 Climb up to just below the cactus basket, then move right on a
small ledge and set up a belay.
- 5.8 Move right from the belay and maybe even down a bit to get past
a rib, then move up a crack (pretty much out of view from the belay).
As opportunity affords, move right onto the face and work your way up
to where the rock steepens. Move up over this (5.8) and belay at the base
of the flake and chimney that forms the third pitch.
- 5.7 Move up and left from the belay into a tight chimney and thrash up
to the top (knee pads might make this less painful). Then step across
from the flake onto vertical face and work your way up to where the
angle lessens and belay. A variation to this pitch (the Sweenie Direct)
avoids the chimney and climbs steep rock up and right from the belay.
- 5.8 Traverse right a long ways under a big headwall until it is possible
to climb up and thru the headwall on very steep chickenheads. Belay above
this steep section. This is all easy 5.6 except for getting over the
headwall (which some have tried to call 5.9).
- 5.8 Move left and down below a blank slab then up on steep rock into
an alcove (pocket). Protecting the moves up into the alcove is tricky.
I toss a sling over a chickenhead before beginning the moves, then once
I get some pro in above the pocket, I climb down and flip the sling off to
avoid rope drag. Above the alcove climb pretty much straight up on steep
rock to a ledge.
- A short pitch gets you to the top.
The descent is quite complex (if you want to end up where you left your packs
and avoid a massive detour around a cliff band below the wasteland).
The first rappel is from a sling over a rock horn (there is a bolt to
backup the sling over the horn, just in case). Fools keep wanting to
add a second bolt because they don't think of using the horn.
The descent from here involves a number of rappels and strategic traverses
around to the left. I will add details when I find my notes on the route.
Feedback? Questions?
Drop me a line!
........
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Tom's Rock Climbing Info / ttrebisky@as.arizona.edu