This is one of my favorite routes in the Tucson area, perhaps for not so objective personal reasons, but it is an excellent route nonetheless. Karl always says that the route to do on Table Mountain is Crescent Crack. In any event, This route has one great attribute: location, location, location. It ascends the fine west buttress of Table Mountain, and is conspicious from anywhere in the Catalina State Park area. And it is a big route in an out of the way area.

Getting there you have two choices. Park somewhere along highway 77 and just kind of make a direct attack through the desert to the base of the buttress. This works, but is probably more work than you imagine. The other approach is to hike up Pima Canyon and either camp on top of Table Mountain or in Pima Canyon at the base of the hikers gulley to the top of Table. A strong party could perhaps hike up Pima Canyon, do the route, and hike out. This certainly works for the East Buttress route on Table Mountain, but why argue with an excuse to spend a night or two out in a fantastic spot. Maybe you just don't like hauling packs with water, overnight gear, climbing gear, ...

Assuming you have made the second choice, you now have to get from the top of Table Mountain to the base of the route (only then to climb back up to the top of the mountain again, isn't this so silly.) The thing to do is to hike to the summit of Table Mountain (the North extremity of this amazing shin-dagger covered piece of rock), and then follow the west rim back south to a prominent gully. Descend this, making two rappels in places where it is impossible to avoid doing so, and then make your way north to the base of the buttress.

The backcountry guide gives a couple of descriptions of this route, which may be a hint that you want to keep your routefinding nose sharp. I have done this route at least 3 or 4 times, so perhaps I can augment and clarify the description somewhat (but then again, maybe not). Also be aware that there is a fair bit of loose rock on this route. My first experience on this route involved my rope being shortened about 10 feet by rockfall and my partner being hurt by falling rock. We were the second of two parties, which in retrospect was not such a wonderful thing. In any event helmets would not be out of place.

  1. Begin by stepping right over a bit of exposure and ascending a crack past bushes to a left facing ramp/book with an old piton. End the pitch on a nice ledge.

  2. Climb up and left through scrub oak past a tree and up a short overhanging bit of crack to a belay.

  3. Continue up the dihedral past a large microwave oven sized block to a giant roof. The next bit is the psychological if not the technical crux of the climb. It would seem that there are as many ways of dealing with this unique bit of climbing as there are climbers. Back inside the roof is an ancient bong (a giant piton) that should still serve as protection. The old guidebook recommended a "horizontal chimney maneuver", which is what I have always done: You can get your body crammed horizontally into the roof, which is a bizarre and unusual sensation. The trick then is getting uncrammed and continuing in the upwards passage. Others recommend an "arm-bar maneuver", whatever that might mean. Yet others recommend staying below the roof and pressing your head back against the rock and edging with your toes on tiny crystals. You can decide when you get there. Once you are out of the chimney you can follow a nice crack up a short distance to a belay. Amazing exposure below and left.

  4. The next pitch has sometimes seemed like the crux to me. Climb over loose blocks on the left end of the belay ledge and move up and left to a steep, almost overhanging wall. Don't climb the tempting groove on the right, but climb cracks and flakes and surmount an overhanging bit at the top to a nice ledge with small trees.

  5. You are past the major difficulties now, but it is still possible to get off-route. The old description said to step right around the corner and ascend an easy chimney. My memory brings to mind things other than easy chimneys, but in any event, move right and head up as best you can ultimately climbing an easy slab to the crest of the ridge.

  6. Continue up on easy ground, taking care not to dislodge a loose arch of rock to the summit.

Feedback? Questions? Drop me a line!

Tom's Rock Climbing Info / ttrebisky@as.arizona.edu