Load range E or C tires on a 4runner

Before I get into the C versus E thing, I want to talk about tire pressure. These tires need higher pressure than C range tires. Discount Tire delivered them to me with 40 psi in them and that sounds about right from all I have read. See below for a fellow who runs 58 psi in his (on a 4runner) and has found that was wonderful. The E rated KO2 tires like I now have can take up to 80 psi. One guy said that the BFG help line told him to run 50 psi -- this is max inflation for a C rated tire.

• PSI for BFG KO2
• Tire Load inflation tables

Weight

That really doesn't sound like a big deal to me.

Another article (and another BFG tire) gives the weights as 44 versus 52 pounds. Again the E rating adds 8 pounds per tire.

• Motor Trend: Load rating and more.

E rated tire has 80 psi max pressure, C has 50 psi
E rated tire is rated for 3195 pounds, C is rated for 2470

So, that extra sidewall ply adds 8 pounds to the weight of each tire. Well, that is why you selected the E tire was it not? You wanted more material to give you more durability. To me, 8 pounds seems like a small price to pay. If you don't agree, that is why C rated tires are available.

The choice

I went to the store after reading endless online discussion about C versus E. My impression was that there are just as many people saying you should run C as there are saying you should run E. I talked to the guys at the tire shop and the first guy said to go with C, the second said it was up to me and the question was whether I wanted to optimize for offroad durability or comfort and fuel economy. Both tires were the exact same price ($308). I went for a walk while they figured out how to fit me into their schedule and when I got back the E tires were on my vehicle. I don't think the salesman and I had actually came to a conclusion, so he must have made the call in my absence and settled the issue for me. And I am OK with that, and feeling all the better about my E rated tires as time goes on and I gain experience with them.

Driving on the interstate at highway speeds, I notice that the 4runner does feel different, but I don't know how to put it into words. It corners with definite authority! It is noticeable that it accelerates more gradually, but of course I also have 285 rather than 265 tires, so diameter is part of the game not just the load rating. I have not yet done any offroading.

The bigger 285 tires do rub (they are on TRD wheels). There is almost no rub going forward, but turning in reverse I get a definite noise. The first thing to do is to remove the mud flap and see if that solves the whole thing. It it does, I can ponder how to either modify it or mount it in a different way. I am very pleased with the big tires. The vehicle new came with some nice Dunlop Grandtrek AT20. These would be $274 at Discount Tire and have a 60,000 mile rating. The BFG KO2 in that size (265/70r17) are the same price with a 50,000 mile rating. The Michelin Defender LTX in the same size is $249 with a 70,000 mile rating.

I would have been just fine with the 285 KO2 in C rating. The KO2 is known to be built tougher than other tires. In other words the KO2 in C rating might well be more durable than other makers E rated tires. The E rating is all about weight carrying capacity (when holding the requisite pressure). The durability is just a side effect.

Online opinions about C versus E

E rated every time for me. Minimum of 5 miles every day on gravel roads. Anything less than 10 ply (rated) won’t last for me.

E. All I've ever run. No difference in mileage at all that I can see, and they last for years and years. Any imaginary mileage difference is more than made up for by the amazing durability and life span.

I couldn't imagine running Standard Load tires anywhere but on pavement or occasional well maintained caliche or hardpack. In fact, I never thought I would see the day that a pickup truck was sold with passenger tires, but I guess they are mounted to get the fuel mileage ratings higher. Times change, maybe I am just a dinosaur.

I run an E rated K02 on my truck (and my last few trucks). I have always been happy with them. I don't find them too harsh of a ride or loud (at least to me). 3 years (and almost 30,000 miles) later and the tires are wearing perfectly!! I run them at 40psi (as per what BFG said when I called them). The guy who originally put the tires on my car were surprised at how well they have worn 3 years later haha. I see these tires being able to get me to at least 40-45k miles before I need to replace them. They are used on light trails and street driving, and some weight on the back (Tacoma with Decked drawer system and a SnugTop Shell). I have personally never ran a C rated tire on a truck/suv before so I can't give a good back to back from my personal experience, but I have always been happy running an E rated tire.

My E rated tires have lost very little tread. I got them for two reasons, the so called tougher sidewalls for peace of mind when off roading and to last much longer on the road.

I run 10 ply because I'm too old to be messing around in the dirt changing a flat.

I would go with C but don't go offroad and would rather have better mileage.

I have C-loads on the Jeep and the Tacoma. Never had issues with sidewall punctures. I tend to slow down a bit when The terrain is full of sharp rocks like shale. Obviously it’s possible but luck's been on my side. I also have full size spares just in case. I prefer the lighter tire, personally, the benefits outweigh the cons.

These BFG 285/75/16 in E are so smooth compared to my Maxxis Bighorn 255/85/16. Even when I had the bighorn down to 18 PSI, it was like a damn wooden wheel. (I got a laugh out of his "wooden wheel" comparison, but it does seem clear that brand of tire matters as much as E versus C on ride quality).

E load. Have had great luck with BFGs with an E load rating. Hold up for 50K plus miles. Have had them on a Mazda pickup years ago, F150s and 2 Tacoma’s.

I wonder why so many are saying the BFG in E are rough. Find em smooth as hell.

E rated. At the right pressure they ride just fine. I'd rather take a small hit on fuel and not worry nearly as much about trying to change a flat in a *** spot on the trail.

The upside to D and E rated is they deal with road hazards better. I had D rated on a 90 truck I had and Es on my old Ram. They would get a nail or big screw with no problems. I once had a tire catch a big piece of jagged metal at 75-80 in the fast lane and explode the RR tire on my Ram. It tore up my bed side and exhaust but the truck remained in control and the rim wasn’t damaged because the heavy sidewall kept the truck off the pavement. Even under low pressure, they can keep a bead and not destroy the side wall.
The down side is the higher unsprung weight and rolling mass has to be accelerated and stopped. I went with C rated on this truck (Tacoma). It’s a better fit for what I’ll use it for. If I was going to use it more hard core, I would have went with a heavier tire. If you have ever changed a 35 or 37 E load, especially of a bed rack, it sucks. They are heavy. Even a 285 E is pretty heavy. I put new 285s on my wife’s JK last summer and went from an E to a C. You can feel the difference.

In the same tire brand and model, an E rated tire will be stiffer and possibly have more plies than a C rated tire, but between brands, one manufacturers E will be much stronger (puncture proof) and/or stiffer than another's (but probably with a similar weight classification, ie 112, etc). I think my E rated BFG KO's had 5 tread plies, and 3 sidewall plies, while my current E rated Firestone Destination XT's are 3 and 2, respectively, and are not nearly as stiff . The KO's also weighed WAY more. Overall, I tend to think of E vs C in terms of weight rating, and nothing more, E's being usually a higher weight rating for a given size tire. Stiffness and durability varies greatly between tire makes and models.

In my books if Rubicon trail rated Wrangler Rubicon xtrem get BFG KO2 Load C or even the huge Ford F150 Raptor get BFG KO2 Load C my 4Runner don't need Load E.

E Load tires make your ride harsh because they're E Load tires. You're running tires designed for an F350 connected to a gooseneck trailer with a tractor on it.

This is my second 4Runner with these. My first had 110,000 miles on it when I sold it. 85,000 were with these E rated BF Goodrich 265’s I ran them at 58 psi on all 4. When I sold the car we had 85,000 miles on these E rated tires and they still looked great with mileage left. In 2022 we bought another 4Runner trail version and actually ordered the tires and stored them before we bought it. On delivery I had them installed, again at 58psi in all 4. We now have 33,000 miles on them and they look great. Our mileage went up with the 58psi pressures and the ride is good on the highway as well. They are a huge win in my experience, now on 2 4Runners.
(I am surprised at the 58 psi and would be looking for accelerated wear in the tread center, but you can't argue with this guy's story -- the markings on my E rated KO2 indicate they can be inflated to 80 psi).

Not an E versus C thing, but interesting: One concern I just started to experience: just past 19K and seeing some loss of wet traction. I don't in general drive with a heavy foot but am experiencing more breaking loose at starting from a stop, minor hydroplaning when hitting a puddle and last week when entering on-ramp to interstate, kicked down to 4th gear to accelerate and briefly lost rear traction in the rain.
I get this is an AT tire with aggressive tread. That said, it's definitely not a Michelin MS2 in this area where I never experienced this change as the tire aged with mileage on them.
This unfortunately is being reported as common for the KO2.